Tuesday, Feb. 19 – Day 64
Surfed this morning, well, I tried to anyway. Got into the water about 9:00, and out at about 10:30. I can’t seem to get in the right spot to catch the wave. I’m either too far out, or too far in; I pick the wrong wave, or the wrong time to stand up. When I am in the right spot, getting up is easy. Otherwise, I do an awful lot of paddling around.
One of the challenges is that, due to the position of the moon, the tides are pretty modest. You’d think that the smaller waves would be easier to work with, but they move faster. So, I have to carry more speed into the wave, and hit a smaller take-off spot to catch it. It’s really challenging for a beginner. I’ll do a private lesson with Evandro tomorrow to help sort this out.
Met a guy named Sam at the surf shack. He’s from New York, recently graduated from Penn, and has been down here for 9 months – he’s not sure what to do with his political science degree. He’s travelled around a lot, and gave me some good tips. One of his best friends went to Indiana University.
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